Sleepy Baggy Lovey – Free Crochet Pattern

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Prepare yourself for cuteness overload with this sleepy amigurumi lovey! These pals will be perfect companions for your baby, because they are soft, adorable and don’t have any plastic parts! If you need a perfect handmade gift idea for a baby shower, or just another sweet accessory for your newborn, this project is for you.

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Lovey amigurumi come in all shapes and sizes, but the most popular is definitely a simple rectangular blanket with a head in the middle. This rag doll is slightly different, because it has baggy base, which is soft and fun to play with!

green and pink lovey amigurumi

Psst… This project is fun, too. I promise!

If you like this toy, be sure to try out my other patterns, because they are great for beginners, too! For example, Sleepy Bunny Lovey can be another sweet amigurumi project for you. It’s available for free!

Yes! Take me to this free pattern! Sleepy Bunny Lovey - Free Crochet Pattern Tutorial

Get to work!

This is a project for upper beginners, who have some experience in crochet, but want to hone their skills and make something cute. You will need to know some basic amigurumi techniques, such as increase and decrease, as well as working in the round and putting all of the pieces together.

Don’t waste another minute – let’s start!

 sleepy amigurumi toys

PATTERN NOTES:

LEVEL – upper beginner

TERMS – standard US

TECHNIQUES

MATERIALS AND TOOLS

  • yarn: Stenli Baby Cotton Candy – to make one toy you need 2 skeins in total;
    • Green version: Milky Ecru (no. 172) and Reseda (no. 20)
    • Pink version: Milky Ecru (no. 172) and Pale Pink (no. 55)
  • filling
  • crochet hook 2 mm
  • tapestry needle
  • scissors
  • stitch marker (optional)
  • sewing needle and a little bit of grey thread or yarn for embroidery

MEASUREMENTS

  • this lovey amigurumi is about 27 cm tall (10,5 inches), but it will be smaller or bigger depending on the yarn weight you choose to work with.

Remember, that your crocheting style can affect the final size of this toy.

pink lovey amigurumi with big ears

before you start

Before you start, a couple of important things:

  • this lovey amigurumi has 9 parts: 2 ears (each one made with two separate pieces), 2 upper paws, 2 bottom paws, a head and a body.
  • paws are attached as you go, but other parts must be sewed on.

Increase / Decrease Technique Reminder:

  • Increase with single crochet (sc inc) – work two single crochet stitches in the same stitch;
  • Increase with half double crochet (hdc inc) – work two half double crochet stitches in the same stitch;
  • Increase with double crochet (dc inc) – work two double crochet stitches in the same stitch;
  • Decrease with single crochet (sc dec) – Insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull through, do not complete the stitch, but insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull through, (there should now be 3 loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through all.
  • Decrease with half double crochet (hdc dec) – yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, pull through, but do not complete the stitch. Yarn over again and insert the hook into the next stitch. There should now be 5 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all.
  • Decrease with double crochet (dc dec) – yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, pull through, pull through two, but do not complete the stitch. Yarn over again and insert the hook into the next stitch, pull through two. There should now be 3 loops on your hook – yarn over, pull through two, pull through two.

Let’s begin!

BOTTOM PAW

Make 2! We are working spirally, as well as increasing and decreasing with single crochet stitches.

Number in brackets () indicates overall count of single crochets in each row.

START: magic ring

ROUND 1: 8 sc into the loop (8)

ROUND 2: 1 inc in each st (16)

ROUND 3: *1 inc, 1 sc* x8 (24)

ROUND 4: 1 sc in each st (24)

ROUNDS 5-7: proceed as in row 4 (24)

ROUND 8: 2 dec, 1 sc in each st (22)

ROUND 9: 1 dec, 1 sc in each st (21)

ROUND 10: proceed as in round 9 (20)

ROUND 11: proceed as in round 9 (19)

ROUND 12: proceed as in round 9 (18)

ROUND 13: proceed as in round 9 (17)

ROUND 14: proceed as in round 9 (16)

ROUND 15: 1 sc in each st (16)

ROUNDS 16-17: proceed as in round 15 (16)

ROUND 18: fold the paw in a way, so you can see your “decrease line” in the middle. You can put a little bit of filling inside, so that it’s more puffy. We close the gap with single crochet stitches, catching both sides of the folded paw (7) (see below)

step by step closing the paw

this is how you close the paw – round 18

Fasten off, secure the yarn, and make another one.

UPPER PAW

Make 2. We are working spirally, as well as increasing and decreasing with single crochet stitches.

Number in brackets () indicates overall count of single crochets in each row.

START: magic ring

ROUND 1: 6 sc into the loop (6)

ROUND 2: 6 inc (12)

ROUND 3: *1 inc, 1 sc* x6 (18)

ROUND 4: 1 sc in each st (18)

ROUNDS 5-8: proceed as in row 4 (18)

ROUND 9: 2 dec, 1 sc in each st (16)

ROUND 10: 1 dec, 1 sc in each st (15)

ROUND 11: proceed as in round 10 (14)

ROUND 12: proceed as in round 10 (13)

ROUND 13: proceed as in round 10 (12)

ROUND 14: proceed as in round 10 (11)

ROUND 15: proceed as in round 10 (10)

ROUND 16: 1 sc in each st (10)

ROUNDS 17-21: proceed as in round 16 (10)

ROUND 22: proceed as with bottom paws: fold the paw and close the gap with single crochet stitches, catching both sides of the folded paw (5) You can put a little bit of filling inside, so it’s more puffy. 

Fasten off, secure the yarn, and make another one.

green lovey amigurumi with big ears

BODY

We are working in rounds. Pay attention to what kind of stitch we are increasing and decreasing with in each round, because you will encounter single crochet stitches, half double crochet stitches, and double crochet stitches.

Number in brackets () indicates overall count of single crochets, double crochets or half double crochets in each row. I DO NOT count chain stitches! Turning chain at the beginning of the row counts as 1 stitch.

START: magic ring

ROUND 1: 8 sc in the loop, close with a slip stitch (8)

ROUND 2: chain 3, 7 dc inc, 1 dc, sl st (16)

ROUND 3: chain 4, 1 dc, *1 dc, chain 1, 1 dc* all in one stitch x 15, sl st (32)

ROUND 4: chain 3, 1 dc inc, chain 1, *3 dc, chain 1* in chain space x 15, chain 1, sl st (48)

ROUND 5: chain 4, *3 dc in chain space, chain 1* x 15, 2 dc in chain space, sl st (48)

ROUND 6: chain 3, 3 dc in nearest chain space, *4 dc in chain space* x 15, sl st (64)

ROUND 7: chain 3, *3 dc, 3 dc in chain space (the one between dc modules)* x 15, 3 dc, 2 dc in chain space, sl st (96)

ROUND 8: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch all around, sl st (96)

ROUND 9: chain 2, *3 hdc, 1 hdc inc* x 19, 3 hdc, *3 hdc, 1 hdc inc* x4, sl st (119)

ROUND 10: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (119)

ROUND 11: proceed as in row 10 (119)

In the next row we are attaching bottom paws, so be sure to find the right place for them. Think about the circle we are working with as a clock – paws should be placed somewhere around 4 and 8. Place the paw in such a way so that “decrease line” on the paw is facing the work.

ROUND 12: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, catching the paws as you go, sl st (119) (see below)

step by step attaching the paw

this is how you attach the paw – round 12

ROUND 13: chain 3, *skip one, 1 hdc, chain 1* x 59, sl st (60 hdc)

ROUND 14: chain 3, 1 dc in chain space, *2 dc in the chain space* x 58, sl st (118)

ROUND 15: chain 3, *2 dc in chain space* x58, 1 dc in chain space, sl st (118)

ROUND 16: chain 4, *skip one, 1 dc, chain 1* x 58, sl st (59 dc’s)

ROUND 17: chain 3, *1 dc dec into the chain space* x59, sl st (60)

ROUND 18: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (60)

ROUNDS 19-22: proceed as in row 18 (60)

ROUND 23: chain 2, *5 hdc, 1 hdc dec* x8, 4 hdc, sl st (53)

ROUND 24: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (53)

In the next row we are attaching upper paws, so be sure to place them in relation to bottom paws you attached earlier. If the circle we are working with is a clock – paws should be placed somewhere around 5 and 7.

ROUND 25: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, catching the paws as you go, sl st (53)

ROUND 26: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (53)

ROUND 27: chain 2, *5 hdc, 1 hdc dec* x7, 3 hdc, sl st (46)

ROUND 28: chain 2, 1 hdc dec, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (45)

ROUND 29: proceed as in row 28 (44) 

ROUND 30: chain 2, *1 hdc, 1 hdc dec* x14, 1 hdc, sl st (30)

ROUND 31: chain 2, 1 hdc in each st, sl st (30)

ROUND 32: chain 2, 1 hdc dec in each stitch, sl st (16)

Fasten off and secure the thread.

HEAD

We are working spirally, as well as increasing and decreasing with single crochet stitches.

Number in brackets () indicates overall count of single crochets in each row.

START: magic ring

ROUND 1: 8 sc in the loop (8)

ROUND 2: 8 inc (16)

ROUND 3: *1 inc, 1 sc* x8 (24)

ROUND 4: *1 inc, 2 sc* x8 (32)

ROUND 5: *1 inc, 3 sc* x8 (40)

ROUND 6: *1 inc, 4 sc* x8 (48)

ROUND 7: *1 inc, 5 sc* x8 (54)

ROUND 8-15: 1 sc in each st (54)

ROUND 16: *1 dec, 7 sc* x6 (48)

ROUND 17: 1 sc in each st (48)

Fill the head with filler.

ROUND 18: *1 dec, 5 sc* x7 (42)

ROUND 19: *1 dec, 5 sc* x6 (36)

ROUND 20: *1 dec, 5 sc* x5 (30)

ROUND 21: *1 dec, 4 sc* x5 (25)

Add more filler to the head.

ROUND 22: *1 dec, 3 sc* x5 (20)

ROUND 23: *1 dec, 2 sc* x5 (15)

ROUND 24: *1 dec, 1 sc* x5 (10)

ROUND 25: 5 dec (5)

Fasten off and secure the thread.

EAR

make 4 – you need two parts for one ear.

START: chain 5

ROW 1: 5 sc

ROW 2: chain 2, 1 inc in each st (10)

ROW 3: chain 3, 2 dc, 5 dc inc, 2 dc (15)

ROW 4: chain 3, 4 dc, 6 dc inc, 4 dc (21)

Fasten off and secure the thread.

To make one ear, take two parts and put them together (they can be of different colors!). Then work single crochet stitches all around to join them together, and add 1 increase on each corner. Remember, that you can use contrasting yarn for the join, to make them even more interesting.

Sew the ears onto the head of this lovey amigurumi, so that they are pointing up, or in whatever way you like.

COLLAR

START: chain 12

ROW 1: chain 2, 1 hdc inc in each st

ROW 2: chain 3, 1 dc inc in each st

ROW 3: 1 sc in each st – but with different color and without turning the work over

Fasten off and secure the thread. 

ASSEMBLING THE TOY

I recommend starting with all of the loose parts, so that paws, head, ears and collar are ready at the beginning. You need paws ready when working on the body, because they are crocheted in as you go. Assembling this lovey amigurumi isn’t hard, but it’s important to be careful and keep the symmetry.

I like to embroider the head when it’s not attached yet, but it’s your choice. Sew the ears onto the head before sewing the head onto the body – that’s for sure. 

you are done!

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4 COMMENTS

  1. Good morning, I need help on the body part
    ROUND 4: chain 3, 1 dc inc, chain 1, *3 dc cluster, chain 1* in chain space x15, chain 1, sl st (48)
    Usually cluster ends with a chain to lock it, so are there 2 chains between clusters ? My body is not staying flat after this round. Thank you

    • hi there, Nicole! sorry for the late reply. It’s my mistake – I put the word ‘cluster’ in row 4 and 5, where I meant simply 3 double crochets. Sorry for that! There’s no additional chain to lock it, then, and there is always 1 chain stitch after each module. This way it should stay flat.
      As for the row 7, I meant the space between double crochet modules – there is no chain stitch indeed, but double crochets create an arch there. Hope it helps! Let me know if anything else needs clarification 🙂

  2. Hi me again, can you please revise row 6 and 7 of the body part. No chain 1 in row 6 but row 7 says 3dc in chain 1 ??? thank you !

  3. Hi Kate, My turn to be sorry for not following up on my questions. I have been making dolls for the last few months. After trying to make your beautiful sleepy lovey I realized that the pattern is for the open bottom do you have the pattern for the closed one. (green in the first picture) The legs, arms and head are done and were put aside. Thanks you very much.

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