Prepare yourself for cuteness overload with this sleepy amigurumi lovey! These pals will be perfect companions for your baby, because they are soft, adorable and don’t have any plastic parts! If you need a perfect handmade gift idea for a baby shower, or just another sweet accessory for your newborn, this project is for you.
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Lovey amigurumi come in all shapes and sizes, but the most popular is definitely a simple rectangular blanket with a head in the middle. This rag doll is slightly different, because it has baggy base, which is soft and fun to play with!
Psst… This project is fun, too. I promise!
If you like this toy, be sure to try out my other patterns, because they are great for beginners, too! For example, Sleepy Bunny Lovey can be another sweet amigurumi project for you. It’s available for free!
→ Yes! Take me to this free pattern! ←
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Get to work!
This is a project for upper beginners, who have some experience in crochet, but want to hone their skills and make something cute. You will need to know some basic amigurumi techniques, such as increase and decrease, as well as working in the round and putting all of the pieces together.
Don’t waste another minute – let’s start!
PATTERN NOTES:
LEVEL – upper beginner
TERMS – standard US
TECHNIQUES
- magic ring
- slip knot
- chain (ch)
- single crochet (sc)
- half double crochet (hdc)
- double crochet (dc)
- inc = increase with sc, hdc, dc
- dec = decrease with sc, hdc, dc
- slip stitch (sl st)
MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- yarn: Stenli Baby Cotton Candy – to make one toy you need 2 skeins in total;
- Green version: Milky Ecru (no. 172) and Reseda (no. 20)
- Pink version: Milky Ecru (no. 172) and Pale Pink (no. 55)
- filling
- crochet hook 2 mm
- tapestry needle
- scissors
- stitch marker (optional)
- sewing needle and a little bit of grey thread or yarn for embroidery
MEASUREMENTS
- this lovey amigurumi is about 27 cm tall (10,5 inches), but it will be smaller or bigger depending on the yarn weight you choose to work with.
Remember, that your crocheting style can affect the final size of this toy.
before you start
Before you start, a couple of important things:
- this lovey amigurumi has 9 parts: 2 ears (each one made with two separate pieces), 2 upper paws, 2 bottom paws, a head and a body.
- paws are attached as you go, but other parts must be sewed on.
Increase / Decrease Technique Reminder:
- Increase with single crochet (sc inc) – work two single crochet stitches in the same stitch;
- Increase with half double crochet (hdc inc) – work two half double crochet stitches in the same stitch;
- Increase with double crochet (dc inc) – work two double crochet stitches in the same stitch;
- Decrease with single crochet (sc dec) – Insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull through, do not complete the stitch, but insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull through, (there should now be 3 loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through all.
- Decrease with half double crochet (hdc dec) – yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, pull through, but do not complete the stitch. Yarn over again and insert the hook into the next stitch. There should now be 5 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through all.
- Decrease with double crochet (dc dec) – yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, pull through, pull through two, but do not complete the stitch. Yarn over again and insert the hook into the next stitch, pull through two. There should now be 3 loops on your hook – yarn over, pull through two, pull through two.
Let’s begin!
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BOTTOM PAW
Make 2! We are working spirally, as well as increasing and decreasing with single crochet stitches.
Number in brackets () indicates overall count of single crochets in each row.
START: magic ring
ROUND 1: 8 sc into the loop (8)
ROUND 2: 1 inc in each st (16)
ROUND 3: *1 inc, 1 sc* x8 (24)
ROUND 4: 1 sc in each st (24)
ROUNDS 5-7: proceed as in row 4 (24)
ROUND 8: 2 dec, 1 sc in each st (22)
ROUND 9: 1 dec, 1 sc in each st (21)
ROUND 10: proceed as in round 9 (20)
ROUND 11: proceed as in round 9 (19)
ROUND 12: proceed as in round 9 (18)
ROUND 13: proceed as in round 9 (17)
ROUND 14: proceed as in round 9 (16)
ROUND 15: 1 sc in each st (16)
ROUNDS 16-17: proceed as in round 15 (16)
ROUND 18: fold the paw in a way, so you can see your “decrease line” in the middle. You can put a little bit of filling inside, so that it’s more puffy. We close the gap with single crochet stitches, catching both sides of the folded paw (7) (see below)
this is how you close the paw – round 18
Fasten off, secure the yarn, and make another one.
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UPPER PAW
Make 2. We are working spirally, as well as increasing and decreasing with single crochet stitches.
Number in brackets () indicates overall count of single crochets in each row.
START: magic ring
ROUND 1: 6 sc into the loop (6)
ROUND 2: 6 inc (12)
ROUND 3: *1 inc, 1 sc* x6 (18)
ROUND 4: 1 sc in each st (18)
ROUNDS 5-8: proceed as in row 4 (18)
ROUND 9: 2 dec, 1 sc in each st (16)
ROUND 10: 1 dec, 1 sc in each st (15)
ROUND 11: proceed as in round 10 (14)
ROUND 12: proceed as in round 10 (13)
ROUND 13: proceed as in round 10 (12)
ROUND 14: proceed as in round 10 (11)
ROUND 15: proceed as in round 10 (10)
ROUND 16: 1 sc in each st (10)
ROUNDS 17-21: proceed as in round 16 (10)
ROUND 22: proceed as with bottom paws: fold the paw and close the gap with single crochet stitches, catching both sides of the folded paw (5) You can put a little bit of filling inside, so it’s more puffy.
Fasten off, secure the yarn, and make another one.
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BODY
We are working in rounds. Pay attention to what kind of stitch we are increasing and decreasing with in each round, because you will encounter single crochet stitches, half double crochet stitches, and double crochet stitches.
Number in brackets () indicates overall count of single crochets, double crochets or half double crochets in each row. I DO NOT count chain stitches! Turning chain at the beginning of the row counts as 1 stitch.
START: magic ring
ROUND 1: 8 sc in the loop, close with a slip stitch (8)
ROUND 2: chain 3, 7 dc inc, 1 dc, sl st (16)
ROUND 3: chain 4, 1 dc, *1 dc, chain 1, 1 dc* all in one stitch x 15, sl st (32)
ROUND 4: chain 3, 1 dc inc, chain 1, *3 dc, chain 1* in chain space x 15, chain 1, sl st (48)
ROUND 5: chain 4, *3 dc in chain space, chain 1* x 15, 2 dc in chain space, sl st (48)
ROUND 6: chain 3, 3 dc in nearest chain space, *4 dc in chain space* x 15, sl st (64)
ROUND 7: chain 3, *3 dc, 3 dc in chain space (the one between dc modules)* x 15, 3 dc, 2 dc in chain space, sl st (96)
ROUND 8: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch all around, sl st (96)
ROUND 9: chain 2, *3 hdc, 1 hdc inc* x 19, 3 hdc, *3 hdc, 1 hdc inc* x4, sl st (119)
ROUND 10: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (119)
ROUND 11: proceed as in row 10 (119)
In the next row we are attaching bottom paws, so be sure to find the right place for them. Think about the circle we are working with as a clock – paws should be placed somewhere around 4 and 8. Place the paw in such a way so that “decrease line” on the paw is facing the work.
ROUND 12: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, catching the paws as you go, sl st (119) (see below)
this is how you attach the paw – round 12
ROUND 13: chain 3, *skip one, 1 hdc, chain 1* x 59, sl st (60 hdc)
ROUND 14: chain 3, 1 dc in chain space, *2 dc in the chain space* x 58, sl st (118)
ROUND 15: chain 3, *skip two, 2 dc between third and fourth stitch* x58, 1 dc in chain space, sl st (118)
ROUND 16: chain 4, *skip one, 1 dc, chain 1* x 58, sl st (59 dc’s)
ROUND 17: chain 3, *1 dc into the chain space* x59, sl st (60)
ROUND 18: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (60)
ROUNDS 19-22: proceed as in row 18 (60)
ROUND 23: chain 2, *5 hdc, 1 hdc dec* x8, 4 hdc, sl st (53)
ROUND 24: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (53)
In the next row we are attaching upper paws, so be sure to place them in relation to bottom paws you attached earlier. If the circle we are working with is a clock – paws should be placed somewhere around 5 and 7.
ROUND 25: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, catching the paws as you go, sl st (53)
ROUND 26: chain 2, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (53)
ROUND 27: chain 2, *5 hdc, 1 hdc dec* x7, 3 hdc, sl st (46)
ROUND 28: chain 2, 1 hdc dec, 1 hdc in each stitch, sl st (45)
ROUND 29: proceed as in row 28 (44)
ROUND 30: chain 2, *1 hdc, 1 hdc dec* x14, 1 hdc, sl st (30)
ROUND 31: chain 2, 1 hdc in each st, sl st (30)
ROUND 32: chain 2, 1 hdc dec in each stitch, sl st (16)
Fasten off and secure the thread.
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HEAD
We are working spirally, as well as increasing and decreasing with single crochet stitches.
Number in brackets () indicates overall count of single crochets in each row.
START: magic ring
ROUND 1: 8 sc in the loop (8)
ROUND 2: 8 inc (16)
ROUND 3: *1 inc, 1 sc* x8 (24)
ROUND 4: *1 inc, 2 sc* x8 (32)
ROUND 5: *1 inc, 3 sc* x8 (40)
ROUND 6: *1 inc, 4 sc* x8 (48)
ROUND 7: *1 inc, 5 sc* x8 (56)
ROUND 8-15: 1 sc in each st (56)
ROUND 16: *1 dec, 7 sc* x6, 1 dec (49)
ROUND 17: 1 sc in each st (49)
Fill the head with filler.
ROUND 18: *1 dec, 5 sc* x7 (42)
ROUND 19: *1 dec, 5 sc* x6 (36)
ROUND 20: *1 dec, 4 sc* x6 (30)
ROUND 21: *1 dec, 3 sc* x6 (24)
Add more filler to the head.
ROUND 22: *1 dec, 2 sc* x6 (18)
ROUND 23: *1 dec, 1 sc* x6 (12)
ROUND 24: 6 dec (6)
Fasten off and secure the thread.
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EAR
make 4 – you need two parts for one ear.
START: chain 5
ROW 1: 5 sc
ROW 2: chain 2, 1 inc in each st (10)
ROW 3: chain 3, 2 dc, 5 dc inc, 2 dc (15)
ROW 4: chain 3, 4 dc, 6 dc inc, 4 dc (21)
Fasten off and secure the thread.
To make one ear, take two parts and put them together (they can be of different colors!). Then work single crochet stitches all around to join them together, and add 1 increase on each corner. Remember, that you can use contrasting yarn for the join, to make them even more interesting.
Sew the ears onto the head of this lovey amigurumi, so that they are pointing up, or in whatever way you like.
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COLLAR
START: chain 12
ROW 1: chain 2, 1 hdc inc in each st
ROW 2: chain 3, 1 dc inc in each st
ROW 3: 1 sc in each st – but with different color and without turning the work over
Fasten off and secure the thread.
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ASSEMBLING THE TOY
I recommend starting with all of the loose parts, so that paws, head, ears and collar are ready at the beginning. You need paws ready when working on the body, because they are crocheted in as you go. Assembling this lovey amigurumi isn’t hard, but it’s important to be careful and keep the symmetry.
I like to embroider the head when it’s not attached yet, but it’s your choice. Sew the ears onto the head before sewing the head onto the body – that’s for sure.
you are done!
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While I work hard to make sure the projects I publish are the highest quality, this pattern is untested and may contain errors. If you notice one, please let me know – I’m going to revise it and correct as soon as possible.
You may also like these free patterns!
- Puppy Baby Lovey Amigurumi
- Rose Bunny Amigurumi
- Calm Cove Square
- Lake Midnight Shawl
- Lake Sunset Shawl
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Good morning, I need help on the body part
ROUND 4: chain 3, 1 dc inc, chain 1, *3 dc cluster, chain 1* in chain space x15, chain 1, sl st (48)
Usually cluster ends with a chain to lock it, so are there 2 chains between clusters ? My body is not staying flat after this round. Thank you
hi there, Nicole! sorry for the late reply. It’s my mistake – I put the word ‘cluster’ in row 4 and 5, where I meant simply 3 double crochets. Sorry for that! There’s no additional chain to lock it, then, and there is always 1 chain stitch after each module. This way it should stay flat.
As for the row 7, I meant the space between double crochet modules – there is no chain stitch indeed, but double crochets create an arch there. Hope it helps! Let me know if anything else needs clarification 🙂
Hi me again, can you please revise row 6 and 7 of the body part. No chain 1 in row 6 but row 7 says 3dc in chain 1 ??? thank you !
Hi Kate, My turn to be sorry for not following up on my questions. I have been making dolls for the last few months. After trying to make your beautiful sleepy lovey I realized that the pattern is for the open bottom do you have the pattern for the closed one. (green in the first picture) The legs, arms and head are done and were put aside. Thanks you very much.
Hey Nicole, hi again!
This pattern is only for the closed one, there’s no pattern for open bottom one on my website. It’s just the way it looks like in the photo, because it’s folded inside in this way 🙂
Hi Kate, I will try again. Thank you for your quick response.
Bonjour pourriez-vous vous me traduire le tuto en français svp car j ai dû ma comprendre merci bien.j aimerais tellement le faire .à bientôt.
I do not speak French, sorry!
Hi Kate, I am thinking about making these adorable little dolls. They would be going to 2 two year old girls. I think they look appropriate for that age group since there is nothing for them to rip off and swallow.
my question is this. I am a long time crocheter but the mother has asked for it to be washable. Washable? What are your thoughts on that. If the head, arms and leggs are filled with poly fill how is that going to work for drying out. I have never washed a toy like this before.
Please what are your thoughts. Thank you
Camille
Hi Camille! I think it will be fine! Polyfill is great for washing, even in the washing machine – it dries fast and goes back to its natural fluffiness. To be extra sure, I would make sure that all the parts are tightly sewn together, though, so that they won’t come off in the process. Of course, gentle hand-washing in cold water would be even better, but we all know how it goes with kids 😉
Oh, and cold water is important for the colors not to bleed, so keep it in mind!
Hi Kate, I’m in the process of making this and am having some difficulty in the head. Round 7 shows that there should be 54 stitches, but as the pattern is increasing by 8 stitches on each round, I end up with 56 stitches which will then throw out the rest of the pattern. Help!
Hi! sorry, it’s a typo – should be 56, of course. Thanks for pointing it out!
These would make awesome “pajama bags,” for sleep overs, if you could figure out a way to make an opening to stash pajamas into them – Maybe an elastic opening near the head?
Yes!! someone else have already suggested that some time ago – it’s a fantastic idea and I will definitely try it out 🙂
Hola. Tengo duda En el cuerpo, en la v14 indica 2pb en cada arco de la vuelta anterior , pero en la imagen no corresponde. Se ven 2pa en cada arco. Quiero saber si es error de redacción o si me pueden explicar por favor. Ya que en la v15 se indica lo que se ve que en la imagen. Y siguiendo el patrón, no corresponde. Agradecería muchísimo su ayuda
Hi Claudia, I’m not sure if I understand correctly, but both in round 14 and 15 of the Body we use double crochet stitches (the pattern says so). Single crochet is used only for the head and paws.
Great pattern, I enjoyed it thouroughly.
that’s great to hear! Thanks!
I just loved making this little fella, I am an experienced crocheter but not with toys so would have loved some extra guidance into how you actually sew bunny together.
Trudie xx
Hi Trudie! Thank you for kind words. I’ve got another baggy lovey pattern in my queue, so I will make sure to make a video or photo tutorial on how to sew it together 🙂
Hi there! I am on ROUND 17: chain 3, *1 dc dec into the chain space* x59, sl st (60). How do you do this decrease into the chain space? Is there a video tutorial link?
Hi Lydia! sorry, but there’s no tutorial yet. Please see this basic tutorial for dc decrease to see what I mean: LINK. Of course in our case both “legs” of the decrease should be worked in the chain space.
Hi Kate your pattern is so cute. I am on row 15 of the body it says 2 dc in the chain space but there was no chain spaces in row 14 please can you help.
Hi Christine! You are right, I wasn’t specific enough in the instructions for row 15. It’s worked as if you have a space between each two stitches – and that’s where you work the pairs of double crochets. I’ve corrected the instruction, so I hope it’s clear now!
How do you attach the ruffle collar? Do you attach it to the top of the body or after the head is attached and then sew to the joining?
Hi Sue! You can do it either way. I attached the head first, because I wanted to make sure it’s properly secured. Then I wrapped the collar around the neck part and sewed it in the back.
Hi Kate,
Thank you so much for sharing your adorable pattern. Silly question, but when you place the paws on to the skirt to stich them together, are the right sides of the skirt and paws facing each other as done in sewing? Since I am at this junction, I’m not sure if the paws flop forward after being stitched and the decrease side is then on the back?
My daughter had a little stuffed bunny we called “Bunny Love” – her equivalent of the new modern lovey. I am now making my soon-to-be arriving granddaughter a little Bunny Love of her own. <3
Hi! Thank you for kind words 🙂 You work the skirt bottom up, so position them the way you want to see them, on the right side of the work. It’s up to you how you want them to look like – if you look closely, in the green version decrease on the paws is facing forward, and in the pink one – the other way around. You decide, but answering your question, how you position them for crocheting is the way they’ll stay. Hope it helps 🙂
Hi Kate, thankyou for thus very cute pattern. I am having trouble with doing a dc Dec into the chain space. I know how to do Dec into a st but not into a chain space?
Hi Glenda! Sorry for the late reply. Decrease works the same way when worked in the chain space. In a regular decrease you make one unfinished dc, then another one in the next stitch, and finish them together, right? Well, in this case both of these unfinished decreases go into the same chain space. Hope it helps!
I am lost on row 17 of the body. I have read your comments above and when I put both legs in the chain space I end up with 30 stitches. I love the pattern and anxious to finish but I am stuck. Thanks for any help you could give me.
Hi Carol! Great questions. In my project I’ve worked both legs of the decrease in one chain space, but you can easily change it for just one double crochet in each chain space (I corrected it in the pattern, because it’s definitely easier to understand and doesn’t make much of a difference). I guess I was aiming for the thickness – when you work both legs of the decrease in the same chain space, you still end up with 60 stitches. Hope it helps!
Hi there! I’m trying to make this pattern but I’m stuck at round 7 for the body. What exactly is meant with “ *3 dc, 3 dc in chain space (the one between dc modules)” and “3 dc, 2 dc in chain space”. Is that the same as 6dc in chain space and 5dc in chain space?
hi Mary, it means 3 double crochets in three consecutive stitches, then 3 double crochets in one chain space. similarly in the second case you mention: 3 dc in the 3 next consecutive stitches, 2 dc in one chain space. Hope it helps!
Thank you! I figured it out by looking at the pictures :D. Another question for the body, should I secure it in such a way so that there’s no hole at the top at the end? Or leave the hole?
I closed the gap by pulling and tying up the yarn when I finished the last row. It doesn’t really matter – more important is the way you attach the head, as it can (but doesn’t have to) create a kind of “neck” 🙂 if you decide to leave a little hole at the top, make sure you securely sew along the edge when attaching the head.
I’ve worked it out thanks Kate
glad You tried it, Sandy! <3
I have thoroughly enjoyed making this pattern. Thank you for sharing it.
I’m going to try one with a section on the back left open for ‘storage’. Would that mean instead is sl st into start of row I could chain two and repeat pattern left to right and right to left to keep split seam in the back.
hi Dawn, thank you for trying out my pattern! I’m so glad you liked the process. I guess you could work it left to right, but be extra careful when working on the wrong side – you can reverse the instructions to be extra sure they fit the row below 🙂 I’m not 100% sure it will work, but looks like it should! Good luck with that!